A new feeling of volume that appears to flow with your movements. For those accustomed to wearing impeccably fitted garments, the volume trend this year can present an unexpectedly considerable challenge, beginning with the sensation of being "too large...".
Original pattern
Sketch
Measuremets
Body measurements
The sewing patterns are based on UK sizes.
Garment measurements
Recommended fabrics and consumption
Fabric: cotton, for stripes, use another color of fabric.
Consumption: to determine the amount of 1.5 m wide fabric (the most commonly available width) needed for a pair of trousers, you will need twice the length of the trousers, plus seam allowances. Check the "Garment measurements chart" and take the "Back Length" (3) measurement plus 13 cm (seam allowances) and multiply by two to get the length of fabric needed.
You will also need: Elastic band 3-3.5 cm wide, the waist line will be measured minus 5 to 10 cm, depending on its elasticity.
Patterns instructions
The patterns are given with seam allowances. They are marked with a double outline. Sometimes a 3rd line appears, it represents the sewing line.
1 Waistband x 1 on bending fabric;
2 Back x 2, y flip;
3 Back yoke x 2, y flip;
4 Front x 2, y flip;
5 Front side stripe x 2, y flip;
6 Side pocket bag x 4, 2 as it is and 2 with y flip.
Cut out the product parts according to the specification. Arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric, securing them with pins or weights to keep them steady. With a pair of sharp scissors, gently cut around the outer edges of the pattern. Be patient to achieve accurate and clean cuts, as this will influence the fit and appearance of the finished garment.
After cutting, do not throw away the patterns. They will be used as templates for marking various guide points (if applicable. Ex: marking a dart tip, hem line, etc.).
Be sure to transfer all notches and other design elements like darts, pleats, and draw marks from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. While sewing the garment, make sure to align the notches correctly; they need to match up.
Sewing instructions
Step 1: Sew the stripes to the fronts of the trouser. Overcast the seam allowances.
Step 2: Sew the opening of the side pocket, marked by two points that are 14 cm apart, found on the side stripe. Place the pocket bag over the front of the pants, making sure the marker points align and the front side of the pocket bag fabric matches the front side of the pants fabric.
Step 3: Trim along the marked points, leaving 1-2 mm of the existing seam, allowing you to turn the pocket bag solely along the length of the pocket opening. If you continue cutting any deeper, you might end up damaging your pocket. It's wiser to gently encourage the return instead. The corners that extend beyond the marking points will stay unbent.
Step 4: Create a decorative stitch along the pocket opening, positioning it 1 cm from the edge of the pocket. Make sure to follow the shape of the stitch indicated on the pattern. The 1 cm distance is not mandatory. You can choose another distance.
Step 5: Attach the second pocket bag to the one that was already sewn onto the pant leg, carefully following the curved shape of the pouch. Ensure that the two pocket bags are oriented towards each other (the fabric's right side) when you look inside the pocket.
Step 6: Sew the pocket bag through all layers along the side seam of the pants, keeping it less than 1 cm from the edge. This way, when you sew the final side seam, the securing stitch will remain hidden on the front of the pants. Usually it is sewn at 0.5 cm from the edge. This stitch ensures that the pouch is firmly held in its final place. The newly added bag seam allowance will remain as the seam allowance for the side seam along the side pocket opening.
Step 7: Overcast the pocket bag on the rounded contour.
Step 8: To enhance durability, consider reinforcing the top and bottom of the side pocket using bartack (1 cm wide) or reinforced stitching, especially if your sewing machine lacks this feature.
Step 9: Stitch the front pleat to a length of 10.5 cm (as indicated on the pattern).
Step 10: Stitch the dart at the waistline, adhering to the direction shown on the pattern and also continue with fixing the pocket bag to the waistline. This stitch should be made at a distance of less than 1 cm.
Step 11: Attach the back yoke to the rear of the pants.
Step 12: Finish the seam with an overcast stitch.
Step 13: Flip it over and sew a decorative stitch (0.1-0.2 ... 0.5mm) on the front of the yoke, ensuring the seam allowance is directed towards the yoke.
Step 14: Overcast the pant parts (4) on the backrise line, frontrise seam, and the two side seams, inner and outer. After sewing, they will come apart into 2 parts.
Step 15: Stitch the sideseam (outerseam) edges of the pants, ensuring that you align all the marker points you come across. Unpick the seams with iron.
Step 16: Stitch the inseam edges of the pants, ensuring that you align all the marker points you come across. Unpick the seams with iron.
Step 17: Sew the trouser back rise and front rise at once, ensuring that you align all the marker points you come across. Unpick the seams with iron.
Step 18: Stitch the hem of the pants. To simplify the process, preform the hem with an iron. Use the pattern to mark the hem width and allowance. This will assist you in executing the hem precisely.
Step 19: Getting the waistband ready to attach to the trousers. Using a template and chalk, outline the seam allowances and the center of the waistband on the fabric's wrong side. With the help of an iron, press one of the seam allowances along the line you marked earlier, ensuring that the line stays hidden within the fold. Now, fold the waistband in half, again making sure that the line is tucked away inside the fold.
Step 20: Attach the waistband to the pants. First, turn the pants inside out. Position the unfolded part of the waistband, which has the seam allowance marked with chalk, over the pants, ensuring the markings are visible. Pin it in place for precision and sew, making sure to closely follow the marked line. Iron the seam allowance, ensuring that the allowances are oriented towards the inside of the waistband. Turn the pants inside out again for the next step.
Step 21: Sew the two ends of the elastic. Position the elastic within the waistband.
Step 22: If the steps were executed properly, you should now see the waistband with the seam allowance folded inward and towards the front of the trousers. Secure the waistband using a basting stitch 0.1 mm from its edge. The fact that the waistband was also folded in half can now serve as a helpful guide to ensure that the two halves overlap seamlessly. And if it’s not perfect, that’s okay; we’ll have a neat basting stitch of 0.1 mm on the front of the trousers. Had the waistband been attached to the front of the fabric initially, it would have been challenging to achieve an even seam.
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